Saturday, May 16, 2020

My Everest Base camp diaries…


Last year, I went to my first big trek, Hamtapass and Chandratal. It was an amazing experience. Off late, I thought to push my body physically & mentally to the new heights which I have never achieved till then.

Then I thought the Mountains are calling me again & I must go.

I started R&D to identify what will test me the most. While doing so, somehow, I was led to the country where many adventure Summits are done - Nepal.

Nepal, a small country which is known predominantly for the trekking.

Finally, I shortlisted to do the famous and tough “Everest base camp trek (EBC)”. I shared this with my family, and luckily they immediately gave me the thumbs up.

Then, I conveyed my thought or rather dream to my closed circle; my friends, gym buddies and colleagues. I received mixed reactions from them. Some of them reacted, “Are you mad??”, “Have you got Insane??” While some of them took a doubt on my capacity, saying, “I doubt whether you are fit for it.” Many people were concerned about the money which I was going to spend on an ‘unnecessary adventure’. They expressed their concern, saying that “how much are you spending? In this budget, you can do a family trip to Europe.” Those who were concerned about my safety, told me to reconsider my decision. They said, “please plan something which is not hard, we want you. Please think again.”

While, only few of them encouraged me along with my family, expressing their excitement, saying, “Wow! Everest??Go for it “ 

 

So, I got to see the support, excitement, care, anger, fear, belief, critics, so many different emotions and reactions from various people who are close to me. 

 

I took all of it and decided to go for it. 

 

EBC takes you from an altitude 9240 feet (Lukla airport) to 18500 feet (Famous kala patthar). Approximately, 45,000 people per year Pan World succeeds this trek. 

So, the dates were fixed, tickets were booked.

Putting myself on the physical activity plan, adhering to the same along with a 5 am to 10 pm strict diet and lifestyle and yoga like meditation, pranayam was never an issue for me being a fitness freak. I enjoyed my journey towards the fitness to the core. Yes, there was a physical torture. Sometimes, I used to feel completely exhausted at the end of the day. But I continued my regimen as the Everest was calling me.

By the departure date, I found myself ready for the trek. Yes, I was physically ready. But the mental and emotional part was tricky though! During all this process, I admit that I was never mentally fit to go. During my last trek, I suffered a massive headache due to the high altitude and other factors. And this time, it was even tougher than the last time. The change in the terrain and altitudes, freezing temperatures, fear of the failure, every single thing apart from my fit body; all these things were worrying me a lot. After couple of sleepless nights, many of half sleep nights, finally I convinced myself that mind will not play any part in this and I am fully fit to do whatever I have planned. And I will do whatever it takes to successfully complete this trek. Mind had planned something big for me at later stage which I didn’t know then. 

 

A day prior to depart, Air India messed up with the flights. I was so stressed out because my trek was about to cancel. I was multitasking the entire day. I was packing for my trek and at the same time, I was arguing with the Air India customer care people. After 4-5 hours of full squabble with their team, and a follow up after every few minutes, I was able to successfully rebook another flight. 

 

On the early morning of 26th September, I bid adieu to my family and promised them to come back to them as a winner. It was the day I left from Mumbai to Nepal along with my friend. 

 

When we reached at Nepal, we were greeted by a thunderstorm at the Nepal airport. Everyone was saying “rains at this time??strange…” The rain is the last thing you want while trekking. At that moment, a thought struck to me that this trek is going to be eventful.  

Next day, we had a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Lukla is the world’s dangerous airport. Its confined space, its location over a hill and most importantly its smallest runway (700 m) which ends into a valley makes it the world’s dangerous airport. We were up and ready and reached at the airport by 6:30 am. Not surprisingly though, we were told that since last 3 days, only 1 flight has flown to Lukla due to the bad weather. With some hope we decided to wait. Our waiting duration was stretched to 4-5 hours hoping that weather would clear and we will fly.

Eventually, we were told that no flights will take off this day too. So, we decided to take a chopper to Lukla. Shedding some money (actually 25 k each) we took this decision to go by the chopper. It was my first experience to fly in a Helicopter.  For me, it was an awesome experience and we were rewarded with the magnificent views of some Nepali settlements over the ranges of huge mountains. 

To our utter dismay we landed to a small place called Surke which is 400 m below Lukla as weather was so bad that even a helicopter couldn’t fly through it.

We took all this in a positive way and decided not to lose the hope. 

After a refreshing lunch, our guide and porter joined us and finally our trek started to Lukla where we were supposed to land by flight on first place without any hassle.

We began to feel the dropping temperatures already as that day Lukla recorded a minimum of 3 degree centigrade.

Next day onwards, our actual trekking commenced and we travelled from Lukla to Phakding, Phakding to Namche, Namche to Debuche. We were heavily sweating while walking and drenching in the rain. During Namche to Debuche journey, strangely weather got clear, the sun was shining, clouds disappeared and we were fortunate to see in front of us which we dreamt to see when we first decided to go for the trek.

It was THE MOUNT EVEREST. It’s first view was so beautiful that I was completely overwhelmed to see the gorgeous snow filled tallest mountain in the world in front of my eyes. I am not an emotional person and I rarely get carried away in the heat of the moment, but this time it was something different. I could feel my cheeks wet. This time it was not with the sweat or the rains but my eyes were brimmed with the tears.  The mount Everest is like the God for any trekker. And at that moment, I was seeing my God standing tall and magnificent in front my naked eyes. It was a moment I would never forget in my entire life.

So, after sighting the mount Everest itself, we reached Debuche with 10 times more energy in our bodies and then to Dingboche and from Dingboche to Lobuche. During our journey, we were greeted by the magnificent ranges of Himalayan snow filled mountains like Ama Dabmam, Nupche, Lotche, Pumori, grass filled savannahs, huge Himalayan Yaks, beautiful colourful flowers, deep valleys, clouds and long man-made bridges. We stayed at some fantastic Tea Houses throughout the trek and our food was predominantly Soup and Nepali Dal bhat which was delicious.

As our trek was progressing, the temperature was dropping below the zero, altitude was gaining steep. But still, my determination kept me strong and focused to reach destination. 

We were at Lobuche @ 4950 m high and our next destination was the EVEREST BASE CAMP @ 5364 m altitude. My body was fit and fine by now. I was accustomed to the altitude and the freezing cold weather. But the excitement of reaching so close to my dream kept me awake most of that night. When my watch ticked 5 Am, I woke up from my bed with an acute headache and running nose. The vomiting sensation added more discomfort and I was feeling completely down. Somehow, I packed my baggage, ate something to be able to carry forward and walk and then left for my destination.

As I anticipated, just within 20 minutes, I was completely down and thought it was over. I thought I was going to fail.  My ‘so called fit body’ gave up and I could sense EBC faraway. I couldn’t even drink water by then. I just couldn’t understand what was happening to me as till this point, even on steep ascends, I was so comfortable to walk.

At the same time, all the reactions, fear, belief, critics and support flashed in front of my eyes and surprisingly I started walking. I was walking very slowly but steadily. I would like to mention something very important here. My mind had kept quiet until this time, but when my body gave up, my mind took a complete control over my body and it was forcing me to walk towards my destination. My dream…The Everest…

Eventually, when I reached Everest Base Camp @5364 m, I was completely fresh and it felt satisfying. The view before my eyes was so satisfying that I felt that all the longing, the anticipation, the wait, the efforts has paid off.

By this time, I was so confident that next day I actually climbed the famous Kala Patthar @ 5500 m. I got up at 5 Am to get there and temperature recorded at top was minus 13 Degree centigrade at that time. 

After kala patthar, the journey was to the downwards and it was much easier. 

This time we flew from Lukla airport towards Kathmandu. That experience was more thrilling than the trek itself. Haha. 

Eventually, after reaching from where we started, I checked the stats of my trek. I had walked more than 130 km in 12 days. The most satisfying part of the trek was to reach the destination and see Mount Everest many times in the trek trail. 

I want to mention one most important thing which I experienced thoroughly during this trek. Our mind has more power than our body. It can make impossible things possible for us. That power is insanely captivating if used correctly.

Healthy mind leads to the healthy body. So, be confident and have strong willpower too. Last and the important thing which this trek has taught me is that, never lose hope and keep trying and believe in the destiny. 

 (Trek by my husband- Harshal Joshi and I just penned down his f

 

 


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